TERRY DE HAVILLAND’S NEW HEIGHTS
Posted by Matchesfashion writer: David Hayes January 10th, 2012
Terry de Havilland's Margaux wedges sandals in pink metalic snakeskin
‘It was great when the Matches’ team came to the studio,’ says Liz de Havilland, shoe maestro Terry de Havilland’s right hand woman and missus of 21 years. ‘Matches picked out two of Terry’s all time classic designs; styles that are totally Terry, totally undiluted, in the colours and snakeskins we love.’
Those styles are the Luna and the Margaux to be precise. The Luna, which originally went by the less romantic name of the Multi-patch, is from 1973, and the Margaux, named after model/actress Margaux Hemingway, from 1975. ‘We brought them back in 2005 and they just won’t go away,” jokes Terry. “We are now in to the fourteenth season with them and they sell and sell.’
‘I even got married in a pair of Lunas,’ adds Liz.
The gorgeous results of Matches’ exclusive collaboration with Mr de Havilland speak for themselves.
The Luna in red, cream and green snakeskin
Terry – born 73 years ago with the more mundane moniker Terrence Higgins – started helping out at his father’s shoe shop at the tender age of 5. After his father’s tragic early death, Terry took over the business, opening the fabulously named ‘Cobblers to the World’ boutique on the Kings Road in 1972. Cue overnight success riding the tidal wave of Glam Rock and an ever expanding list of famous customers that includes everyone from Twiggy, Bianca Jagger, David Bowie, Tim Curry and Jackie Onasis through to Sienna Miller, Alison Goldfrapp, Kate Moss, Michelle Pfeiffer, Helena Bonham Carter and Jessie J.
Allison Goldfrapp is one of the many de Havilland fans
‘We made a pair of bespoke commando sole shoes for Jessie J at a few day’s notice just before Christmas for her appearance on the Strictly Come Dancing final,’ says Terry. The commando soles proved such a hit that Terry is working on a version of the commando sole for summer’s ready-to-wear line. ‘And we’ve just made shoes for Helena Bonham Carter and Michelle Pfieffer for the upcoming Tim Burton gothic horror film, Dark Shadow,’ adds Liz.
Is there anyone left who he hasn’t made shoes for? ‘Beyonce ‘ says Terry without missing a beat. ‘She’s amazing in heels.’
All the prototypes and bespoke shoes are made in London. ‘Terry doesn’t sketch,’ says Liz. ‘He builds everything on the last in 3D, I try them on, work out any problems and then we get the mainline collection made by an old family firm in Spain.’
‘Shoes have got so ridiculously high these days,’ says Terry. ‘I don’t like going over four and a quarter inches – above that your calf starts going in to spasm. I love high heels but there are limits.’
The Margaux in orange and yellow snakeskin
It was a different story in the 70s. ‘I used to put a health warning on the inside of the sole then,’ he says, only half joking. ‘People would laugh at my designs then and say, ’you’ll never sell those,’ but they would sell like hot cakes.’
The Luna in blue metalic snakeskin
Terry’s shoes are made for fun. ‘I like a shoe that you can go out and enjoy wearing,’ adds Terry. ‘Many of my clients from the 70s say, ’I don’t have any of your shoes left, I’ve worn them out’. Some customers like to get versions of those classic styles remade today as they remind them of the good times.’
Liz and Terry are an unshakeable partnership. ‘How did we meet? I did fine art printing at college and was working on a new hologram fabric that a mutual friend thought that Terry would love,‘ says Liz. ‘I went to his house expecting some bitter old queen with a handle bar moustache but was surprised to find this East End geezer. His first comment was to me was; ‘oh you’re size 5 shoe, sample size.’ And that was it. We just clicked instantly and I never really left.’
East End geezer: the man himself
Terry’s shoe heros are Salvatore Ferragamo – the man who made the wedge a wow in the Forties - and a contemporary of his, shoes designer Jan Jansen. And his favourites shoe sporting celebrities through the last few descades? He is hard pushed to name only a few but will admit Bianca Jagger and Angie Bowie are high on the list from the Seventies. ‘Seeing Kate Moss’s ‘Bowie’ cover on the recent Paris Vogue cover made me think, Here we go again,’ laughs Terry.
The old crew still keep in touch – ‘Jo Wood is always popping in to the studio,’ says Terry – but the couple don’t look back: a new menswear range with London bespoke men’s shoe makers Joseph Cheany & Sons is in the pipeline for later this year. ‘The shoes are so exquisitely, beautifully made,’ says Terry who sticks to nothing higher than a commando sole there days after breaking his leg 10 years ago.
What next? Tom Cruise in a pair of Terry’s snakeskin platforms perhaps? Watch this space.
SHOP MATCHES’ EXCLUSIVE TERRY DE HAVILLAND SHOES>>
Tags: David Bowie, Glam Rock, Jackie Onasis, Jo Wood, Kater Moss, Liz de Havilland, Luna, Margaux, Matches Exclusive, Mens, snakeskin, Terry de Havilland, wedges, Women, Womens, womenswear
