LONDON FASHION WEEK: MEN’S DAY
Posted by Matchesfashion writer: David Hayes February 24th, 2012
The last day of London Fashion Week belonged to the boys – with Matches’ favourite sartorial labels E. Tautz and Rake the hottest tickets in town.
“The collection was inspired by an exhibition of Richard Serra’s work at The Met in New York,” said E. Tautz’s creative director Patrick Grant before the start of his super-smart showing at the Freemason’s Hall in Covent Garden, referencing the American artist who works in monolithic sheets of steel. Cue a collection of Savile Row worthy tailoring in shades of – you’ve guessed it – steely grey, black and navy with hits of bright red in the form of oversized checks, block coloured shirts, statement coats and knit panels on sweaters .

What's in a name? The 'Walter' trench coat at E. Tautz
“We’ve given all the coats names this season,” added Grant with a wink. Out came a cavalry twill zip duffle called ‘Bernard’, a single breasted wool melton named Clement, a red trench called ‘Walter’ and a super-fine reversible number going under the moniker ‘Geoff’? What’s not to love?
Over at Claridges, Clive Darby had created a louche night club setting of cosy grouped tables for his ultra-cool Rake show – with Kelly Brook, Dermot O’Leary and David Gandy adding some celebrity swank to proceedings.
“A trace of whisky on his breath, a brush of lipstick on his collar, the Rake’s only constant is his wardrobe as he skips insouciantly from continent to continent…” read the shows notes. The collection certainly lived up to that louche promise with a whole lot of attitude provided by a handpicked cast of real men of all ages as well as some very fine tailoring that played with ultra luxe fabrics, from rich velvets to smart bird’s eye check tweeds and butter soft suedes.
Darby took his winning mix-and-match approach to the max with cool shades of russet red, jade green tobacco brown, soft grey and ivory on separates that took the Rake man from smart day to casino ready black tie with the dressier Rake Lounge line – all given a jaunty kick with dandy velvet slippers in eye-popping shades. It’s just what your wardrobe has been waiting for.
Tags: aw12, Clive Darby, E Tautz, London Fashion Week, Men, Mens, menswear, Patrick Grant, Rake, Rake Lounge









