Matches' Menswear Buyer, Stacey Smith's book of the moment

Ever wondered how the ‘pea coat’ got its name – nothing to do with frozen veg; a lot to do with the miss-pronunciation of the original Dutch cloth it was made from FYI – the origins of the modern day dinner suit or exactly when chinos swapped their army origins for a life as a Civvy Street classic? Then Josh Sims’ cool book, Icons of Men’s Style, is the one for you.

In fact, it’s the bedtime book of the moment for our very own menswear buyer, Stacey Smith. What better recommendation do you need?

All the usual style suspects - like Mr Bond - and much more

Packed with iconic male stars – Michael Kane, Steve McQueen, Sean Connery, all the usual suspects – as well as some surprises, including Salvador Dali, Buster Keaton and Mike Tyson, and cool archive imagery and adverts, Sims’ weighty book is a comprehensive look at the building blocks of men’s modern style written in the easy, breezy style of your favourite men’s mag.

The pea coat: all you'll ever need to know

Read up, impress your friends with cunning style facts down the pub, have something cool on your book shelf – and maybe even look a little more stylish to boot?  And all for £19.95.

Taxi? Robert De Niro's iconic shades in Taxi Driver

Icons of Men’s Style, Josh Sims; Published by Laurence King Publishing Ltd.

René Gruau, Cover for Sir #4, 1957. Polka dot acetate, ink and gouache on paper

He’s the fashion illustrator who defined Parisian Haute Couture in the middle of the last century – think icon sketches of Christian Dior’s ground breaking New Look of 1947 – but French genius, Rene Gruau, also turned his pen and ink on men too.

René Gruau, Cover for Sir #1, 1966. Gouache and felt tip pen on paper

Fancy taking a closer look yourself at Gruau’s super-cool menswear sketches shown here? Then pay a visit to Paul Smith, 9 Albemarle Street, London, W1, this month. The Brit designer, in association with the Fashion Illustration Gallery, is hosting ‘The Gruau Man’; an exhibition of Gruau’s menswear illustrations for Sixties men’s mag, Sir, which runs from March 21^st to April 21^st 2012.

René Gruau, Cover for Sir #3, 1967. Gouache on paper

The eye-catching works on show span a 16 year period from 1956 to 1972 and perfectly capture the snake-hipped man about town of the time in gouache, ink and felt tip pen – all with a knowing wink and a bobble hat or two.

René Gruau, Cover for Sir #2, 1971. Gouache and ink on paper

For further information, and some more choice fashion illustration gems, visit fashionillustrationgallery.com

The McQueen team didn’t let the occasion pass without some serious sense of occasion either; a strict guest list and a venue made-up as an enchanted forest got the fashion crowd chattering, but it was the clothes that took over as the talking point.

McQ show A/W 12

It featured many of mainline McQueen’s signature hits such as tartan, leather, full skirts and an overall military feel but though still theatrical, it had a definite wearability to it. ‘I wanted to do a show that defined who the McQ woman is and the world that she lives in,’ Sarah Burton ‘I didn’t want it to feel like a second line. Just because it’s a cheaper price point doesn’t mean you can’t have a special coat or a beautifully cut jacket. You buy clothes because you love them and you want to have them.’

Sounds like an exciting new beginning for the ‘elevated’ line.

McQ show A/W 12

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Pictures courtesy of Alexander McQueen

E. Tauts' super-smart shades of grey

“The collection was inspired by an exhibition of Richard Serra’s work at The Met in New York,” said E. Tautz’s creative director Patrick Grant before the start of his super-smart showing at the Freemason’s Hall in Covent Garden, referencing the American artist who works in monolithic sheets of steel.  Cue a collection of Savile Row worthy tailoring in shades of – you’ve guessed it – steely grey, black and navy with hits of bright red in the form of oversized checks, block coloured shirts, statement coats and knit panels on sweaters .

Hot tomato - hits of red at E. Tautz

What's in a name? The 'Walter' trench coat at E. Tautz

 “We’ve given all the coats names this season,” added Grant with a wink.  Out came a cavalry twill zip duffle called ‘Bernard’, a single breasted wool melton named Clement, a red trench called ‘Walter’ and a super-fine reversible number going under the moniker ‘Geoff’?  What’s not to love?

Tailoring with attitude: Rake

Over at Claridges, Clive Darby had created a louche night club setting of cosy grouped tables for his ultra-cool Rake show – with Kelly Brook, Dermot O’Leary and David Gandy adding some celebrity swank to proceedings.

Rake: cool colour and ultra-luxe fabrics

“A trace of whisky on his breath, a brush of lipstick on his collar, the Rake’s only constant is his wardrobe as he skips insouciantly from continent to continent…” read the shows notes. The collection certainly lived up to that louche promise with a whole lot of attitude provided by a handpicked cast of real men of all ages as well as some very fine tailoring that played with ultra luxe fabrics, from rich velvets to smart bird’s eye check tweeds and butter soft suedes.

Dandy slippers with everything at Rake

Darby took his winning mix-and-match approach to the max with cool shades of russet red, jade green tobacco brown, soft grey and ivory on separates that took the Rake man from smart day to casino ready black tie with the dressier Rake Lounge line – all given a jaunty kick with dandy velvet slippers in eye-popping shades. It’s just what your wardrobe has been waiting for.

Real cool guys at Rake

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CHRISTOPHER KANE

Christopher Kane AW 12

That Mr Kane has been watching some dark stuff in the run up to this show, namely the serial killer movie, Cruising. It was all a little sinister in reference with the purest blood red dresses that had the illusion of looking almost wet and watermarked silk pieces reminiscent of coffin linings. Dark? yes, even the placed florals were on black and in sinister shades, but it could in no way be described as gothic – it was strong, powerful and beautiful in Kane’s signature style.

Christopher Kane AW 12

BURBERRY PRORSUM

Town and Field was the name of the collection and that’s exactly what we got. Christopher Bailey worked country classics like flat caps, tweed and heritage tailoring with towny dressed-up references – lace, bow belts, peplums, ruffles and voluminous sleeves. The final curtain call came with the style and panache you would expect from a Burberry Prorsum show with the rain ‘turned on’ outside the clear tent and the models walking done the runway with umbrella’s that are surely going to the must-have accessory for Autumns showers.

Burberry Prorsum AW 12 (Picture from Burberry)

OSMAN

There’s nothing like a swirling-colourful carpet catwalk to get us excited. Osman cited the work of Albert Kahn and his photographic catalogue of the world as inspiration and this translated into knock-out details on crisp white shirts with hand-loomed brocade collars, tailored trousers, sleek leather dresses with fishtail hems and bright and bold floral prints on silk. We were blown away with the attention lavished on this crisp silhouette.

OSMAN AW 12

OSMAN AW 12

McQ

As the last show of a very long Monday it needed to be crowd pleaser – and of course it was. On entering the nondescript warehouse space in New Oxford Street we were transported into an enchanted forest (with a bar) and a crunchy floor of autumn leaves. This show took elements of mainline Alexander McQueen collections and made them accessible with a bit of an urban and military edge – the volume trend continued shooting from the hip here too, either tulip shape skirts or full on stand out pleats.

MARY KATRANTZOU

A fabulous start to Tuesday morning, and a riot of colour. ‘Colour is the fruit of life’ by Guillaume Apollinaire read the title of the show notes and this set the scene for the show.

Mary Katrantzou AW 12

A succession of colours came out, each colour associated in print by specific everyday objects. ‘I like to find the beauty in everyday things’ said Mary afterwards to the assembled crowd. Hence Crayola box colours of yellow, blue and green were accompanied with pencils, 70s telephones, lawns, watches and many more objects. This wasn’t the end of the story though ‘I wanted to challenge myself by really engineering the silhouette around the prints, which is very difficult to do’, and indeed these prints came to life with the amazing structure built out of the pieces, no two the same. She worked with Lesage, the atelier de broiderie owned by Chanel to work the sequins and embellishment onto the pieces too. ‘It literally took my breath away’ said Matches International Buyer Natalie Kingham after the show.

Mary Katrantzou AW 12

Mary Katrantzou AW 12

ANYA HINDMARCH

There had been a few questions asked as to how super-star bag designer Anya Hindmarch was going to pull off a ‘show’ of her own this fashion week rather than a presentation. She delivered. Seats were facing a still set built of conveyor belts, old furniture, piled boxes and a plywood ferris wheel. As two headscarf wearing 40′s housewives chatting accidentally released a handle the whole thing came to life. Robotic bags and shoes moved around the conveyor belt, a steam train lead pieces around a track, furniture opened, bags danced and gloved hands appeared to shake and play with Anya’s sparkly clutch bag, pumps and platforms. Towards the end curtains went back at the top of the set to show Anya peddling away on a bike ‘powering’ the whole thing. An explosion of ticker tape signalled the end. Fabulous!

ROKSANDA ILINCIC

Roksanda Ilincic AW 12

The queen of cocktail dressing decided to take a slightly different direction; leisure and weekend wear. ‘I wanted to dress up leisurewear, I wanted my woman to rebel a bit, take some androgynous pieces and menswear influences’ said the designer. Jersey fabrics, sweaters, cute monogrammed crisp white shirts and parkas somehow fitted in effortlessly with Roksanda’s jewel toned evening aesthetic to create a show that in no way seemed dressed down. A duffle bag and cropped puffa jacket with an evening dress? If it works why not.

Roksanda Ilincic AW 12

HOLLY FULTON

‘The starting point was Lady Chatterley’s lover and I imagined my woman as a glamourous lady just on her way back to her grand house from misbehaving in the green house with the gardener – she’s still immaculately turned out and accessorized but has dew in her hair’ said he Scottish designer backstage. Doesn’t she sound like fun?

Holly Fulton AW 12

This high-maintenance-woman collection stuck to just two colours – fuchsia pink and bright turquoise, scattered with small repeat patterns of the art deco prints that are Holly’s signature. Did we also spot some palm leaves and butterflies in there? ‘I was thinking about greenhouses and my Mum – she only ever wears blue and works in a botanical gardens’.

Holly Fulton AW 12

PICTURES BY OWEN REYNOLDS

ADDITIONAL WORDS BY YASMIN COKE

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Jonathan Saunders A/W 12

Colour, texture and print collided with gorgeous rose print silk up against a stiff metallic tailoring and dresses – all buttoned up to the neck with a cravate, it made for a well-dressed, polished woman. ‘We started with equestrian colours and some Japanese images which I loved but we were unsure which of these directions to take it in – thankfully they came together’ said Jonathan post show.

Jonathan Saunders AW 12

To top off a fab show it had even been timed so the sun set across the London skyline as the show finished – well worth the wait for the lift.

MATTHEW WILLIAMSON
The Royal Opera House was lit up a treat and Matthew Williamson was in a buoyant mood as he started celebrations for the 15th year of his label. ‘I wanted this to be a celebration of the DNA of the brand – a fusion of ornamentation and decoration done in a pared back way’ said Matthew.

Matthew Williamson AW 12

Matthew Williamson backstage AW 12

Decadence was not in short supply as luxurious brocade fabrics, heavy embellishment in chains, swarovski crystal and sequins and glossy wet look finishes graced pieces for all occasions. As Matthew himself said ‘who doesn’t love a pair of gold brocade pants with a cuban heel – might even get a pair myself!’ Us too.

ACNE
The last show on Sunday evening saw us sipping Campari cocktails in the concrete surroundings of The Old Sorting Office for the Acne show. The collection woke us up after a long day with its clashing textures, sculpting silhouettes and flashes of unexpected, eye-popping colour.

Acne AW 12

Acne AW 12

Jonny Johansson, Acne’s creative director, drew inspiration from the body in art, the subject of the next issue of Acne Paper, that looks at the body through the eyes of an artist. And the end result? Structure and definition through super-wide waist belts, wave like volume in quilted puffa jackets and fleshy pinks and dusty hues with a flash of fluro.

ANTONIO BERARDI
‘I tend to take lots of different inspirations, chew them up and spit them out’ said Antonio backstage ‘but the end result was something based on Roccoco era and the Boston Tea Party’.

Antonio Berardi AW 12

A pallette of grey, nude and white peppered with red and turquoise paraded out in stiff voluminous tailored pieces, all sloping shoulders and snaking folds of fabric from the waist.

Antonio Berardi AW 12

The end evening looks were fluid and body skimming dresses and gowns with heavy and luxurious embellishment, it had us asking, how weighty are those pieces to wear? ‘Not heavy at all – I love the idea that the embellishment looks so grand but the material is actually a light weight plastic’ he replied with a smile.

SOPHIE HULME
Every season Sophie picks a charm which is given with each item bought, in the past there have been whistles and animals but this season it was a dinosaur. Far from a frivolous gimmick, the dinosaur, or specifically toy dinosaurs influenced the collection – sounds silly but it’s not.

Sophie Hulme AW 12

Sophie’s point is that us humans have no idea what colour dinosaurs actually are and hence toy dinosaurs are always bright colours, this led Sophie to shots of pink throughout the collection, dinosaur prints and lace cut-outs – you never know, a dinosaur could have been coated in lace. If it sounds overly cutesy, it really wasn’t, it was just gorgeous wearable pieces we want to wear now.

ERDEM
Oh this lady was a bit of a vamp – in a totally non threatening way though. Lace, lace on lace, lace print, appliqued florals, print florals, it was all there and executed to perfection as we have come to expect.

Erdem AW 12

Only there was something a little harder to this collection, maybe the rubberised finishes or acidy yellow, lime and pink colours running through – ‘our lady this season is stronger and I like taking something perfect and making it not’ said Erdem backstage, all seemed perfect to us.

Erdem AW 12

Click back tomorrow for more and don’t forget to follow us on facebook, instagram and twitter for news from shows, as we see them @matchesfashion
PICTURES BY OWEN REYNOLDS AND YASMIN COKE
ADDITIONAL WORDS BY YASMIN COKE

Issa AW 12

Head-to-toe prints, elegant evening wear, fur hats and flowing maxi shapes made up the collection that was inspired by the journey from Moscow to Beijing. ‘The collection is very Russian-inspired and then there is Mongolian fur and Chinese influences that lead to art deco’, said Daniella Helayel post show of the collection. Happily, it still managed radiated her signatures (and best sellers) through silk jersey dress and floor-length lace gowns.

JW Anderson
Hot new talent to the London Fashion Week schedule, JW Anderson made the most of Central Saint Martin’s relocation to a new part of town and showed in the drafty old building the college once occupied.

JW Anderson AW 12

This brave collection of voluminous fleece-backed quilted pieces and super-shiny PVC tunic and trousers in matching sombre colour combos, had some sinister inspiration. Named the Chamber of Isolation, ‘the collection was inspired by a psychotic woman in surburbia who becomes neurotic’, said Anderson backstage, ‘the quilting is like a life jacket – it gives an awkwardness’. Creepy but cool.

JW Anderson AW 12

Vivienne Westwood
As always the flashbulbs were going crazy for supermodels (Jacquetta Wheeler, Janice Dickinson), actresses and strangely celebrity chefs (Heston Blumenthal – nope we don’t know why either). Cue Westwood favourites on the catwalk from tailoring in ticking stripes and tweed check, jersey cowl blouses and dresses and some corseted red carpet numbers in a jacquard and velvet – well Meryl Streep was wearing Vivienne to collect her BAFTA so maybe the A-list will see Westwood as a lucky charm for the Oscars later this month.

Vivienne Westwood Red Label AW 12

PICTURES BY OWEN REYNOLDS AND YASMIN COKE

ADDITIONAL WORDS BY YASMIN COKE

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